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Help! Top Operation - Trunk don't close to finiah full cycle!

Phrede,
Thanks for the clarification. See what happens when a materials engineer (me) tries to explain mechanical stuff. In the end, it is a bad idea to force the trunk closed.


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As a known fact the intend would only be in a one time emergency case, not to mention that while working on the replacement of the license bulb I accidentally push down on the lid and after it was down part way it automatically finished closing like normal on its on!


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Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"
 
As a known fact the intend would only be in a one time emergency case, not to mention that while working on the replacement of the license bulb I accidentally push down on the lid and after it was down part way it automatically finished closing like normal on its on!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"


All it takes is once to blow a seal or a line. Sometimes the hydraulics will start up and close the trunk if the system senses downward force/motion. An attempt by the system to save itself.

Again, your car, your choice. I prefer to take the few seconds it takes to do it correctly and open the bypass. However, all my roof/trunk problems I had in the beginning are now gone :blinzel:
 
There are three sensors. The Rear Tonneau sensor is located on the drivers side scissors rear deck lid lifting mechanism. The Front Tonneau sensor is located behind the seats on the front/trunk wall. And the Folding Top sensor is located behind the driver's head inside the sail panel under the vinyl cover. Chances are, a sensor is either going bad or has changed in value enough to not match the values stored in the Folding Top Control module. A re-learn at the dealer looks at the sensor values over the course of a complete cycle, and stores them in the FTC module's memory. Sometimes a re-learn fixes the problem, otherwise you may need a sensor(s) replaced.

CCC

Can I jump in here and ask for someone to confirm that these sensors are part number 19210515? I thinking it would be good to carry a spare (or maybe all three?) of the potentiometers. When I do a parts check, I am getting a 'switch' and some places a 'relay'. The rock auto site does manage an image of the right thing, but I am double checking.

GMPartsDirect shows it at $59.77 each (and as a 'switch').

TIA
 
Can I jump in here and ask for someone to confirm that these sensors are part number 19210515? I thinking it would be good to carry a spare (or maybe all three?) of the potentiometers. When I do a parts check, I am getting a 'switch' and some places a 'relay'. The rock auto site does manage an image of the right thing, but I am double checking.

GMPartsDirect shows it at $59.77 each (and as a 'switch').

TIA

Just learned yesterday from my dealer there is a software upgrade for this problem. Also learned that GMPP does not cover it. Cost for the software upgrade installed, $117.00. Everything is working like new again.
 
Just learned yesterday from my dealer there is a software upgrade for this problem. Also learned that GMPP does not cover it. Cost for the software upgrade installed, $117.00. Everything is working like new again.



What kind of problems were you having?
 
What kind of problems were you having?

Everything worked until time for the top to release from above the windshield. After another attempt the top went down but the trunk cover would not go down. Several attempts I finally got everything back in the closed position. Ran an errand, arrived at first destination and tried to put top down, was sluggish not your normal 29 seconds operation. Went to dealer, made an appointment for the next day, yesterday. Took it in for appointment yesterday and they put it on the diagnostic which told them to install the software upgrade. Like I said it does everything just like it was new again. I have 29,181 miles on the odometer and it is 8 years old. My GMPP is good until the end of May 2015.
 
My 2006 XLR has the same problem

My trunk won't open by itself with any of the buttons, but it will open when I put the top down :dunno: I don't get the audible tone in car when the top completes it cycle, seems that the sensors are not working. Just wondering were there located.

Hi Dan, my "06" XLR does the same thing. I am hoping to find some insight on the XLR.Net Forum. I may end up having to take it to a dealer to get it fixed. Problem is I live in West Virginia and closest dealer is in Pittsburgh, PA. When I find out anything, I'll let you know.
 
I located all the sensors, made sure that they were all plugged in, read a some details here on how they work: Potentiometer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia trying to avoid going to the dealer but it looks like I'll be making that trip. Making some phone calls now trying to find a dealer that know XLRs in my area.
 
Without a Tech 2, you cannot re-learn or program the module that senses the resistance (a voltage read as counts) of the sensors. You can buy sensors online which will cut some of the cost, but you'll need a dealer (or obtain a Tech 2) to calibrate the system once they're installed.

CC :wave:
 
Finally made it to Delaware Cadillac to get my Top & Trunk issue looked at. They have 1 certified XLR technician. The Rear Tonneau sensor located on the drivers rear deck lid lifting mechanism was bad that's why my trunk wouldn't close, replaced that one. The Front Tonneau sensor located behind the seats on the front/trunk wall was working intermittently after they did a relearn on the top. Everything works now but that front one could give me trouble in the future if I don't replace it. They had only one sensor in stock so I had them order the one for the front.
 
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My damage, Sensor $106.74 x 2 = $213.48 Diagnosis and sensor install $180 Total $393.48 (Ouch)
 
Sadly, in XLR world $300-400 is probably a bargain!
 
My damage, Sensor $106.74 x 2 = $213.48 Diagnosis and sensor install $180 Total $393.48 (Ouch)

List price on the sensors is $82.77 and you can get them online for about $56. I would check it out and question the stealer on that one.
 
Finally made it to Delaware Cadillac to get my Top & Trunk issue looked at. They have 1 certified XLR technician. The Rear Tonneau sensor located on the drivers rear deck lid lifting mechanism was bad that's why my trunk wouldn't close, replaced that one. The Front Tonneau sensor located behind the seats on the front/trunk wall was working intermittently after they did a relearn on the top. Everything works now but that front one could give me trouble in the future if I don't replace it. They had only one sensor in stock so I had them order the one for the front.

Our V was having the exact same symptoms as your car - we did a top relearn and at the moment eveything is back to working, but I suspect we have sensor(s) going bad. So your info is really, really helpful on where the problem is - thanks for sharing!
 
Top operation fixed!!

A BIG thanks to everyone especially CC for all of the xlent information regarding this issue! My top would occasionally abort right when the rear tonneau was called to extend. Knowing there was a software fix, I went to dealer A (with a copy of the complete procedure explaining to first download the "updated software calibration") who after two hours said "this thing is like a rubik's cube and needs all new sensors and a day of work." This was the answer I got after asking about the software upgrade. With all of the warning flags of "learning rather than repairing" raised, I made a call to dealer B who said their tec was experienced with the XLR. At dealer B they immediately said replacing all 3 sensors didn’t make sense, then added the software and everything is working perfectly! I added an oil change and inspection, and now have a new dealer.

Readers are leaders! The thought of having everything torn apart and still not work is sickening. Especially at the $1200 they quoted withouta guarantee it would work. $130 bucks later and finding an experienced tec is priceless. Left dealer B with the top down. I love this site.
<o:p></o
 
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All these stories are why I bought a tech II clone. It's already paid for itself with one re-learn that fixed my top issue after the trunk was left open over night.

I'm sure it will more than pay for itself when a sensor does go bad, and it only costs me $60.
 
All these stories are why I bought a tech II clone. It's already paid for itself with one re-learn that fixed my top issue after the trunk was left open over night.

I'm sure it will more than pay for itself when a sensor does go bad, and it only costs me $60.

Can you pls provide specifics and purchase details? I am interested in picking up a Tech2 and a clone would be even easier on the pocketbook. I already purchased a complete set of GM Repair Manuals...just in case. :(
 
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