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Battery keeps running down

Battery Drainage

:dunno::dunno:I have a 2006 XLR-V which is giving me a fit.When not run for 2 or 3 days the battery goes flat.I ve taken it back to the Cadillac dealer twice and they CAN'TFIND THE PROBLEM.The battery is brand new test 100 % there is nothing obviously on in the car yet something is draining the battery has any body else experienced same problem and if so what was the solution as my dealer has not been able to fix the problem.

Get yourself a Battery Tender and that'll be the end of your problems. I've had 5 Corvettes and every one of them did the same thing, until I got smart and put a battery maintainer on them and I do the same with my '06 XLR. DO NOT get a "trickle charger!! They will suck the fluid out of your battery!! Use only a "float charger" like the Battery Tender or the Black & Decker Battery Maintainer. These can be left on indefinitely with no harm to the battery.
 
Albert, try this once. When you park for the day, remove your key fob from the ignition switch and keep it at least 40 feet from the car until you need to run it again. See if the battery stays up. I've been told there are circuits are kept alive when the fob is within reception distance.

Rusty


:dunno::dunno:I have a 2006 XLR-V which is giving me a fit.When not run for 2 or 3 days the battery goes flat.I ve taken it back to the Cadillac dealer twice and they CAN'TFIND THE PROBLEM.The battery is brand new test 100 % there is nothing obviously on in the car yet something is draining the battery has any body else experienced same problem and if so what was the solution as my dealer has not been able to fix the problem.
 
Rusty, there is no ignition switch on an XLR, it's a button. When I park it in the garage, I put my hat on the hood and put the keys with fob on it and the battery never has gone dead & I have an 06-V. It's called luck of the Irish, if you own a dragon


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Albert, try this once. When you park for the day, remove your key fob from the ignition switch and keep it at least 40 feet from the car until you need to run it again. See if the battery stays up. I've been told there are circuits are kept alive when the fob is within reception distance.

Rusty
 
The RCDLR module (which detects if the fob is in range) is enabled as long as battery power is available. It's always "listening", and draws a small amount of power. With the passage of two or three weeks, (depending on the condition of the battery) the battery will be discharged to the point that the fob may not be detected and the ignition will probably not have enough current to start the car. My fob lives on a peg next to the entry to the garage and doesn't diminish the battery charge in a day (or three) so I would be more inclined to troubleshoot this fault as a parasitic drain (if the battery is indeed not suspect.)

Just to eliminate a likely cause, pull the fuse of the RCDLR first and see if the symptoms change over the course of a few days. (make sure you have a window rolled down before you exit the car.) If the problem persists, pull a group of fuses to narrow down the offending circuit. Keep detailed notes and though it may take awhile, you can get pointed in the right direction to begin more detailed troubleshooting. If it's over your skill level at that point, tell the dealer what circuit is suspect by showing them your notes.

Another troubleshooting strategy (you'll need a multi-meter to do this) is to monitor the battery current draw and start sequentially removing and replacing fuses until you isolate the offending circuit. This post is several months old with no feedback from the OP, so it may have been fixed by now.


CC :wave:
 
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I have proven many times that if I keep the fob near or in the car that the battery reserve is greatly diminished. I believe that the cars systems stay in a different state of readiness and therefore the parasitic drain is increased.
 
battery going bad.

:dunno::dunno:I have a 2006 XLR-V which is giving me a fit.When not run for 2 or 3 days the battery goes flat.I ve taken it back to the Cadillac dealer twice and they CAN'TFIND THE PROBLEM.The battery is brand new test 100 % there is nothing obviously on in the car yet something is draining the battery has any body else experienced same problem and if so what was the solution as my dealer has not been able to fix the problem.

I can only suggest that there is a wire that is causing a shorting out of your electrical system which will run down your new battery in no time at all. I experienced a similar issue with me Motor coach and the techs said that there was nothing wrong with it and they tried to suggest that I was using the inside invertor which is totally not the truth as I still have not tried to use nor know how to use the invertor. They eventually did find a wire that was shorting out causing the drain on the batteries. The wire was obscure and hard to find but only found it due to another device on the coach not working properly. Once the shorting out problem was rectified, no more battery failures. My motor coach is not the same as my 2008 XLR-V But a similar battery problem none the less. My XLR-V has sat idle in the garage (without a battery tender) for up to three weeks without a problem.

Good luck. Jon.
 
battery running down

I just tracked mine down to a shifter problem. The car doesn't find park and will not go to sleep, but when it ran all the way down it would reset the problem and run another 3 to 4 cycles before it hit again. Nice to know the problem but GM has the part(#15217064) backordered just like my right headlight LOL. Still runs great but have to disconnet the battery and then wait for a relearn of 20 min. after reconnect
 
I just tracked mine down to a shifter problem. The car doesn't find park and will not go to sleep, but when it ran all the way down it would reset the problem and run another 3 to 4 cycles before it hit again. Nice to know the problem but GM has the part(#15217064) backordered just like my right headlight LOL. Still runs great but have to disconnet the battery and then wait for a relearn of 20 min. after reconnect

Thanks for sharing. I guess those gremlins are at it again.


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Greetings, With the amount of electronics on these cars it will run down FAST. Try & put a battery tender on it.. And do not put the top down without the car running...:thumbsup
 
:dunno::dunno:I have a 2006 XLR-V which is giving me a fit.When not run for 2 or 3 days the battery goes flat.I ve taken it back to the Cadillac dealer twice and they CAN'TFIND THE PROBLEM.The battery is brand new test 100 % there is nothing obviously on in the car yet something is draining the battery has any body else experienced same problem and if so what was the solution as my dealer has not been able to fix the problem.

I had the same problem, after a few trips to the dealer they put a super-technician on it to find the problem was the Florida Sum Pass transmitter that was stored in my rear center console storage compartment wasn't letting my electrical system go completely to sleep after my engine was turned off. I was told to either keep the transmitter in the silver plastic bag it came in or take it out of my car if I didn't plan on using it. I didn't believe them, so I decided to take it completely out of my car. Problem solved, now I believe them! Consequently, I feel you must have something similar electronically that is keeping your electrical system from going completely asleep when you turn off your car. Think about it, and I bet you'll find the device that's keeping your electrical system awake. Take it out of you car and your problem will be solved!!!
 
Do you have the other key fob in the car ? And is it several feet away from the car if you have it with you. I was told the. Computer is constantly searching for the fobs. So keep them away from the car unless you are driving


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The XLR is a power hog. I had a new GM replacement battery in my XLR when I bought it. 700 cca. It consistently ran down if we didn't drive the car every day. If it sat for longer than 3 days, I was almost assured I would have to get the battery charger out to start it.
After several months of this, I bought an Odyssey battery. 3 times the cost of a normal battery but 1500 cca. It's been better than a year now and it cranks each and every time, even after sitting for 2 weeks. I don't use a battery tender either.
 
The XLR is a power hog. I had a new GM replacement battery in my XLR when I bought it. 700 cca. It consistently ran down if we didn't drive the car every day. If it sat for longer than 3 days, I was almost assured I would have to get the battery charger out to start it.
After several months of this, I bought an Odyssey battery. 3 times the cost of a normal battery but 1500 cca. It's been better than a year now and it cranks each and every time, even after sitting for 2 weeks. I don't use a battery tender either.

I have owned my 2006 XLR-V for ten years now and only had the problem when the Florida Sun Pass transmitter was left in my unattended car for a few days. See me previous post. I have had a new cheap Walmart battery replaced every two or three years. I only put seven thousand mile a year on that can and it sits very often for seven to ten days and starts up immediately even after sitting all that time. Again I say, you must have something in you car that is not letting the electrical system completely shut off. It could be as simple as the suggestion in a previous post where a second key fob may be stored in you center console or somewhere in you car. Any type of transmitter will drain the battery, perhaps even a cell phone that is left on.
 
See post #24 in this thread for troubleshooting excessive current draw.

CC :wave:
 
See post #24 in this thread for troubleshooting excessive current draw.

CC :wave:

If you have reason to suspect that a fob is keeping your XLR awake, don't forget it is being in range that counts, a door or a wall is not necessarily able to attenuate the signal enough; for example, keeping the fob on the other side of the garage wall is a known issue.
 
A higher current draw on the RCDLR circuit would answer the fob question. Otherwise, it wouldn't hurt to check (fuse by fuse) the rest of the electrical system to determine where the excessive current is being supplied.

CC
 

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