Radiator Replacement

[carterchapman]

I am troubleshooting a coolant leak under the left front - under the radiator. I have a couple of questions:

I have an early build 2005 (thanks for the build sheet Bruce!) - Oct '04, so I have the following "expected" items so far:
1. Melted headlight bezels
2. A proper working top, but every now and then my trunk does not unlatch but the motor tires to raise it when I push the license plate button, so I figure I have all early sensors, and this may be a future problem of "greater magnitude". This is a topic for another thread. And,...
3. The small coolant leak.

I will remove my intake assembly and determine if it is a hose or the radiator this weekend, but I noticed the follwoing step in my shop manual for radiator removal:

Recover the freon from the A/C system.

I've removed and replaced a number of GM radiators without "bothering" the A/C system, but is this truly a necessary step in radiator removal?

That takes it out of the hands of most of us if it is.

So now (drum roll please), the question:

Have any of you removed your radiator and were you able to do it without removing/replacing the freon?

Thanks in advance.

 

[mtrocket]

I believe the radiator & a/c condenser have to come out as an assembly... at least this is how, when I got to this point in rebuilding my XLR, I had to install it; the assembly sits in the engine compartment at about a 45 degree angle (it took me quite a while to figure that out). Thus, the reason to evacuate and recharge the a/c system. There are mobile a/c techs - at least in my area - that come to you when this needs to be done. Or you can always take it in and get the a/c system evacuated then a return trip to recharge when you are done installing... which is what I usually do at my body shop, since I don't have a/c evac/recharge equipment.

 

[xlrdriver]

I had the exact same trunk problem with my 04. The problem started after the car sat for a while and the battery drained. Following Battery replacement all seemed to operate as advertised after the windows were reset. The top opened and closed perfectly, but I noticed when attempting to open the trunk only, I could hear the latches operating, but no trunk movement occured. This was the case no matter how I attempted to open the trunk.

In any case, I took the vehicle in for service of the fuel lead (GM covered the maintenance) and had them look at the trunk as well. Supposedly all the car needed was reprogramming. 2 hours of labor, no parts and no description of what was actually done. Trunk works perfectly now. Maybe you can tell me what they did.

I read a recall notice or technical service bulletin about the melted headlight bezels somewhere when doing pre-buy research on my vehicle.

Can't help on the radiator.

 

[Cadillac Tech]

I will remove my intake assembly and determine if it is a hose or the radiator this weekend, but I noticed the follwoing step in my shop manual for radiator removal:

Recover the freon from the A/C system.

I've removed and replaced a number of GM radiators without "bothering" the A/C system, but is this truly a necessary step in radiator removal?

That takes it out of the hands of most of us if it is.

So now (drum roll please), the question:

Have any of you removed your radiator and were you able to do it without removing/replacing the freon?

Thanks in advance.[/QUOTE]

You are better off discharging the A/C system to replace your radiator assembly. The system only holds 1.6 lbs of R134a. If your XLR has very many miles on it, this would be a good time to replace both serpentine belts.

 

[gsbarry]

Condenser Replacement Necessary?

Sorry for trying to revive an old thread here...

For anyone who has direct experience or good knowledge of the A/C system on XLR's:

The service manual states that the drier/dehydrator is integrated with the condenser, and is not separately serviceable. Typically, anytime an A/C system is serviced (i.e. opened to atmosphere) replacement of the drier is required due to saturation concerns. So, does this mean that condenser replacement (supposedly being non-serviceably integrated with the drier) is required anytime the XLR A/C system is opened? Has anyone opened the A/C system and not replaced the condenser with good results? Or is the drier perhaps actually serviceable somehow?

I too have an apparent rad leak, and am trying to determine if the (perfectly good) condenser will need replacement as well.

 

[bobdunn]

I got mine out without breaking the A/C

I am troubleshooting a coolant leak under the left front - under the radiator. I have a couple of questions:

I have an early build 2005 (thanks for the build sheet Bruce!) - Oct '04, so I have the following "expected" items so far:
1. Melted headlight bezels
2. A proper working top, but every now and then my trunk does not unlatch but the motor tires to raise it when I push the license plate button, so I figure I have all early sensors, and this may be a future problem of "greater magnitude". This is a topic for another thread. And,...
3. The small coolant leak.

I will remove my intake assembly and determine if it is a hose or the radiator this weekend, but I noticed the follwoing step in my shop manual for radiator removal:

Recover the freon from the A/C system.

I've removed and replaced a number of GM radiators without "bothering" the A/C system, but is this truly a necessary step in radiator removal?

That takes it out of the hands of most of us if it is.

So now (drum roll please), the question:

Have any of you removed your radiator and were you able to do it without removing/replacing the freon?

Thanks in advance.

To give you "wiggle room" with the A/C condenser you need to remove the 2 push pins that hold it up against the black plastic shroud in front then lift and remove the condenser from the 4 clips it slides into. Release the fan as well via the clips and screws. after removing the hoses you can start to gain the slight maneuvering room you need to get the radiator free. TIP: inspect your new radiator. If it comes with the metal clips (it should) that hold the quick connects in then use a small jeweler's screw driver to pry the old ones off making those 4 hoses short work. Problems: everything is in the way of everything else.

 

[pure zen]

Thanks Bob for the informative suggestions.....