TPMS Reprogramming - How to get "Programming Mode"?

[PAK XLR8]

OK, I finally got my aftermarket rims and tires (staggered 20's) and ordered new TPMS for the setup (keeping the stock rim/tire set for investment purposes).

After I got the tires installed, and on the car, I could not get the car to go into the "programming mode", with the methods posted on this board - pressing the lock/unlock at the same time, while in ACC mode. All I get is the single horn chirp, not the dual chirp that is expected. I noticed that one other guy had the same problem a few years ago, but no real solution was presented. I tried both remotes, in case there was a low battery in my primary fob (same result each time).

Since the car won't go into "programming mode", I cant get the new TPMS to register to the car. The tire shop is stumped , and I don't want to go to the Cadi dealer for this simple task.

Any experience or hints that can help me here? I have the 2009 manuals, which did not seem to help me on this problem.

Thanks in advance to all you experienced ones!

 

[cubby558]

PAK,

I believe the ignition has to be on (not started< but on; not in ACC mode) then try the lock/unlock at the same time. That should get you in program mode.

OK, I finally got my aftermarket rims and tires (staggered 20's) and ordered new TPMS for the setup (keeping the stock rim/tire set for investment purposes).

After I got the tires installed, and on the car, I could not get the car to go into the "programming mode", with the methods posted on this board - pressing the lock/unlock at the same time, while in ACC mode. All I get is the single horn chirp, not the dual chirp that is expected. I noticed that one other guy had the same problem a few years ago, but no real solution was presented. I tried both remotes, in case there was a low battery in my primary fob (same result each time).

Since the car won't go into "programming mode", I cant get the new TPMS to register to the car. The tire shop is stumped , and I don't want to go to the Cadi dealer for this simple task.

Any experience or hints that can help me here? I have the 2009 manuals, which did not seem to help me on this problem.

Thanks in advance to all you experienced ones!

 

[PAK XLR8]

That's the problem - it was in ACCY mode

We (the tire dealer and I) have followed this procedure with the ACCY mode on and only get the single horn beep (when pressing both lock/unlock buttons on the remote). When it does this, there is no indication on the DIC that it is in "learn mode" and it does not respond to the sensors being activated with the tire dealer special tool.

Somehow, I need to get the car in "learn" mode, which is not happening with the normal procedures.

It is also interesting that even though the stock tires are not near the car (they are still down at the shop, miles away), the tire pressures are still showing up as they were when the original tires were installed. It has not recognized that the TPMS sensors are not nearby, nor updated the sensors in the 60 or 30 second intervals that are supposed to happen.

Still stumped. I sure hope it is not a case of a defunct TPM module on the car!

Thanks for the input Cubby!!!

PAK,

I believe the ignition has to be on (not started< but on; not in ACC mode) then try the lock/unlock at the same time. That should get you in program mode.

 

[PAK XLR8]

Clarification - ACCY and ACCY ON

Just a quick clarification - if I go into ACCY - Ignition On (my holding the ACCY button for the full 5 seconds to get all systems on, without the engine running), the programming beeps will not happen at all (no single or double beeps). Only when the ACCY is activated will I get the single horn beep.

I think this is what you were trying to get me to do. In this case, I get NO response from the key fobs.

PAK,

I believe the ignition has to be on (not started< but on; not in ACC mode) then try the lock/unlock at the same time. That should get you in program mode.

 

[cubby558]

If you can't get it to learn, the RCDLR remembers the previous TPMS sensor ID's and their values. If it is not going into learn mode, a trip to the dealer may be in your future. If you are only hearing on chirp, keep holding the lock unlock buttons longer to see if it enters the learn mode. Are you using a TPM tool to do the scan?

Good luck!

 

[cubby558]

PAK,

Did a little more research, if you are getting one chirp on the unlock lock buttons, it is in learn mode. With your TPM tool start at the left front, when you receive a hone chirp move to the right front. After the horn chirp more to the right rear, when you get that horn chirp move to the left rear. Once it recognizes the last one, you will get two horn chirps and the RCDLR will exit the learn mode. You'll have to drive a bit before you get the actual tire pressure to register. For new sensors you must have a tool to register the new TPMS ID. Hope this helps.

 

[PAK XLR8]

The plot thickens

Thanks again Cubby,

I spent an hour and a half at the tire dealer, trying to get this figured out. His special tool could not find the new sensor (when he ran the test mode), but we did get one of the tires to "beep" during the programming. We even tried to get a new sensor out of the box to beep, and it did. So now I think one of the sensors is trying to read a non-installed TPMS. Bottom line - I don't know what I have programmed in my car now, new or old sensors (in or out of the tires).

And, to top it off, the car now thinks I have a flat tire, and it has limited my steering and max speed to 55 mph!

So, my next step is to reinstall the factory tires and see if I can reprogram them to the system. If that works, then I know it is a case of getting bad (or wrong) TPMS sensors - which were ordered aftermarket. If that is the case, it will cost me $400+ to get new sensors to replace the bad ones - the tires have to be taken off, new sensors installed, tires remounted and balanced.

If I can't reprogram the factory tires, that means the RCDLR module is bad (which would explain the lack of double beeps), and it is located behind the instrument cluster, requiring a total removal of the dash and all to get access.

How can such a simple thing get so complex??? Wait, I know the answer - it is an XLR

PAK,

Did a little more research, if you are getting one chirp on the unlock lock buttons, it is in learn mode. With your TPM tool start at the left front, when you receive a hone chirp move to the right front. After the horn chirp more to the right rear, when you get that horn chirp move to the left rear. Once it recognizes the last one, you will get two horn chirps and the RCDLR will exit the learn mode. You'll have to drive a bit before you get the actual tire pressure to register. For new sensors you must have a tool to register the new TPMS ID. Hope this helps.

 

[Bakertech]

TPMS

It is time to go to the GM Cadillac Dealer.
Note to Self "Do not mess with the TPMS".
Put some lube on the valve stems as that is where corrosion occurs resulting in slow leaks.
Use only plastic Valve Caps. Metal ones will seize and you can break the stem off removing them.
I hope there are new batteries in the new set of sensors.
Good Luck

Thanks again Cubby,

I spent an hour and a half at the tire dealer, trying to get this figured out. His special tool could not find the new sensor (when he ran the test mode), but we did get one of the tires to "beep" during the programming. We even tried to get a new sensor out of the box to beep, and it did. So now I think one of the sensors is trying to read a non-installed TPMS. Bottom line - I don't know what I have programmed in my car now, new or old sensors (in or out of the tires).

And, to top it off, the car now thinks I have a flat tire, and it has limited my steering and max speed to 55 mph!

So, my next step is to reinstall the factory tires and see if I can reprogram them to the system. If that works, then I know it is a case of getting bad (or wrong) TPMS sensors - which were ordered aftermarket. If that is the case, it will cost me $400+ to get new sensors to replace the bad ones - the tires have to be taken off, new sensors installed, tires remounted and balanced.

If I can't reprogram the factory tires, that means the RCDLR module is bad (which would explain the lack of double beeps), and it is located behind the instrument cluster, requiring a total removal of the dash and all to get access.

How can such a simple thing get so complex??? Wait, I know the answer - it is an XLR

 

[cubby558]

TPMS Sensors


PAK,

The GM part number for the sensors are 25758220. You can usually find them cheaper on eBay or Amazon, than what the dealers want for them.

 

[DAVE JONES]

tpm

We (the tire dealer and I) have followed this procedure with the ACCY mode on and only get the single horn beep (when pressing both lock/unlock buttons on the remote). When it does this, there is no indication on the DIC that it is in "learn mode" and it does not respond to the sensors being activated with the tire dealer special tool.

Somehow, I need to get the car in "learn" mode, which is not happening with the normal procedures.

It is also interesting that even though the stock tires are not near the car (they are still down at the shop, miles away), the tire pressures are still showing up as they were when the original tires were installed. It has not recognized that the TPMS sensors are not nearby, nor updated the sensors in the 60 or 30 second intervals that are supposed to happen.

Still stumped. I sure hope it is not a case of a defunct TPM module on the car!

Thanks for the input Cubby!!!

I had the same problem so I too to Chevy dealer who fixed in minutes with no charge

 

[ccclarke]

Your RCDLR is probably fine; it just needs to be placed in Learn mode to accept the new TPMS sensors (if they're the right P/Ns.) If it isn't communicating as per the owner's manual procedure, a Tech2 is required.

But . . . the RCDLR is fairly easy to replace and doesn't require disassembly of the dash, just removal of the (top) dash pad and a couple of retaining screws for the module.

CC

 

[xlrlist01]

Your RCDLR is probably fine; it just needs to be placed in Learn mode to accept the new TPMS sensors (if they're the right P/Ns.) If it isn't communicating as per the owner's manual procedure, a Tech2 is required.

But . . . the RCDLR is fairly easy to replace and doesn't require disassembly of the dash, just removal of the (top) dash pad and a couple of retaining screws for the module.

CC

It is hard to be sure from your symptoms, but it does seem that you are in learn mode, but the sensors are not going into report mode (when they are put in a strong magnetic field). How much have the sensors been driven? They do need to be charged up, and they get charged up by being driven. Try at least ten miles.

 

[PAK XLR8]

TPMS - What an ordeal!

Thought I would check back, after a long and dusty trail to resolve this TPMS programming issue.

First the beginning - I purchased a set of Orange brand TPMS on line. They are the same as Dorman brand - private label. They do list the part number as the factory part number mentioned above. They will program to the car when outside the box, but not when installed in my rims/tires. We tried everything - donut magnets to help the programming machine, letting some air pressure out, trying different angles on the programming machine (though the sidewall, through the tire tread, through the rim, etc.) - no go.

So, had to put the stock rims back on, and they programmed back to the car just fine (with a single beep, and no indication in the DIC that it was in programming mode). Double beep at the end. That meant my RCDL module was just fine.

When I removed the new wheels and tires, I noticed that effing tire dealer did not use the plastic covers on the inner rim clamps, putting 4 sets of "snakebite fang" marks on the inner barrel of my new chrome rims - I was bummed! I alerted the manager and he agreed to remove the tires, install new TPMS, remount and balance the tires for the wholesale cost of the new TPMS - as a consolation prize for the damage that his crew did to the rims. I agreed, but told him he was not going to touch my rims, until he got those plastic protectors to keep from any further damage. He finally suggested that I try another chain store that had the plastic parts and he would reimburse me for the money I would have to pay that store to do the work. Put all 4 new rims and tires back on the car and head 10 miles away to get it done. They tell me that they could install the sensors, but their "programmer" was on vacation for 4 weeks! I told him after all this "hands on" work, I could program the damn things - he said no way. Back home to wait for the plastic parts at my original tire store.

So, I wait, and keep waiting, because he says the plastic protectors are on back order. He has to buy them from his in house parts supplier - even though they are available on Amazon and eBay. And, here's the kicker - since I am now driving around without any TPMS sensors, I have no clue about the tire pressure in the new tires. Low risk, right, everything is brand new - Wrong! The left rear tire loses all of its pressure for some reason and I end up driving on the brand new Michelin Pilot Super Sports, with one flat tire - enough to ruin the flat tire (I only put 60 miles on the car in 3 weeks). So now, I have to replace an expensive 20" tire - which is on back order for 60 days! Now I have to wait for a new tire AND the plastic parts for the tire machine - I'm about ready to blow a gasket after all this!

The end of the story is this - I purchased the plastic parts for the tire machine, and managed to find a single new tire on eBay, which I purchased. I will have the new tire and plastic parts next week, and will (hopefully) be done with this simple task of upgrading my car. The tire dealer promised to reimburse me for the tire (nearly $400) and do the work for free. Pray for me that this is the last chapter!

Here is what the new tires and rims will look like:

Lesson learned - test the sensors BEFRE they are installed. Can't explain why they worked outside the rim/tire, but that's the mystery that will remain.

It is hard to be sure from your symptoms, but it does seem that you are in learn mode, but the sensors are not going into report mode (when they are put in a strong magnetic field). How much have the sensors been driven? They do need to be charged up, and they get charged up by being driven. Try at least ten miles.

 

[Bakertech]

TPMS FUBAR

Thought I would check back, after a long and dusty trail to resolve this TPMS programming issue.

First the beginning - I purchased a set of Orange brand TPMS on line. They are the same as Dorman brand - private label. They do list the part number as the factory part number mentioned above. They will program to the car when outside the box, but not when installed in my rims/tires. We tried everything - donut magnets to help the programming machine, letting some air pressure out, trying different angles on the programming machine (though the sidewall, through the tire tread, through the rim, etc.) - no go.

So, had to put the stock rims back on, and they programmed back to the car just fine (with a single beep, and no indication in the DIC that it was in programming mode). Double beep at the end. That meant my RCDL module was just fine.

When I removed the new wheels and tires, I noticed that effing tire dealer did not use the plastic covers on the inner rim clamps, putting 4 sets of "snakebite fang" marks on the inner barrel of my new chrome rims - I was bummed! I alerted the manager and he agreed to remove the tires, install new TPMS, remount and balance the tires for the wholesale cost of the new TPMS - as a consolation prize for the damage that his crew did to the rims. I agreed, but told him he was not going to touch my rims, until he got those plastic protectors to keep from any further damage. He finally suggested that I try another chain store that had the plastic parts and he would reimburse me for the money I would have to pay that store to do the work. Put all 4 new rims and tires back on the car and head 10 miles away to get it done. They tell me that they could install the sensors, but their "programmer" was on vacation for 4 weeks! I told him after all this "hands on" work, I could program the damn things - he said no way. Back home to wait for the plastic parts at my original tire store.

So, I wait, and keep waiting, because he says the plastic protectors are on back order. He has to buy them from his in house parts supplier - even though they are available on Amazon and eBay. And, here's the kicker - since I am now driving around without any TPMS sensors, I have no clue about the tire pressure in the new tires. Low risk, right, everything is brand new - Wrong! The left rear tire loses all of its pressure for some reason and I end up driving on the brand new Michelin Pilot Super Sports, with one flat tire - enough to ruin the flat tire (I only put 60 miles on the car in 3 weeks). So now, I have to replace an expensive 20" tire - which is on back order for 60 days! Now I have to wait for a new tire AND the plastic parts for the tire machine - I'm about ready to blow a gasket after all this!

The end of the story is this - I purchased the plastic parts for the tire machine, and managed to find a single new tire on eBay, which I purchased. I will have the new tire and plastic parts next week, and will (hopefully) be done with this simple task of upgrading my car. The tire dealer promised to reimburse me for the tire (nearly $400) and do the work for free. Pray for me that this is the last chapter!

Here is what the new tires and rims will look like:

View attachment 5301View attachment 5302

Lesson learned - test the sensors BEFRE they are installed. Can't explain why they worked outside the rim/tire, but that's the mystery that will remain.

I googled TPMS and here is the link and my comments.
I have wondered how you are making out. I have checked a few sources and find NO reference to the sensors being 'charged' by driving. They have small batteries which fail sooner than expected. Certain scan tools can tell battery strength the following link says.
The valves are actually the antenna so be sure they are not encumbered with anything fancy.
I would not purchase anything like that on the www, but it is too late for that advice! Yours may be old stock and perhaps the Wheel Section is thicker on the new wheels and prevents programming. Have you tried programming one beside but OFF the vehicle? Invert rim and try as well. If it is a wider wheel, and installed in the drop centre, perhaps the rotor has its own magnetic field and interferes ???
It may save your sanity to order one from GM and see if it works. Keep a good tire gauge handy in the vehicle.
It is apparently no longer the Law that you must keep the TPMS if you do not have the original tires.
The part that gets me is the slowdown to 55!
Are these 2 piece wheels? Perhaps mixed metallurgy? Just guessin'.

later,
Gord.


I Googled an article that has excellent info.
Likely not enough room for it here but it specifically mentions Corvette and Cadillac applications.

Good Luck.
Tire Pressure Monitor System TPMS

 

[PAK XLR8]

TPMS - Lessons Learned

Thanks Gord, for the extra research - it helps us all!

You are correct, the TPMS DO NOT charge anything. They do, however, go to "sleep" when they are not activated by rotation, to save battery life. They are potted in epoxy, with a one time use battery. Supposedly, they have a life of 6 to 10 years, depending on the use and temperature - so eventually, all of these sensors will go bad.

The tools they use to program the sensors to the cars do have a "test" function, but all I could see was a test for "good" or "no sensor detected". It did not give any indication of the charge left in the battery.

It is possible that the units I purchased are old stock, with low battery charge. They would have to be almost 10 years old for that to happen. Remember, I WAS able to get them to program outside the vehicle (I had 5 sensors). They would not program when in the installed locations. This could be weak batteries, or the extra space between the tool and the sensor, because these are wider rims (with 35 series - low profile - tires), and there are steel belts in the tire tread area (magnetic).

You are also correct that they are programmed by an RF/magnetic signal. The rims are one piece forged aluminum, chrome plated - nothing magnetic there. Being 20" diameter, they are pretty far from the brake rotor.

I do carry a tire gauge in my "regular" car, because when a low tire pressure is sensed, it does not tell me which one. If the pressure is still OK, but below the threshold, it may not be obvious which one it is. And, in this high tech car, with very limited storage, I depend on the TPMS to tell me what the exact pressures are at each location - when they are working.

When I removed the "bad" tire, there were no obvious nails or "wounds" to the tire, so I don't know how the air got out

The 55 MPH limit is driven by your friendly BCM/ECM that tries to protect you if you have a flat, with limited maneuverability, so you don't shred the tire - assuming that you are running on the run flats - which I was not. I am of the mindset that the run flats are OK for some people, but not for me. They have limited availability - size wise - and they don't perform as well as the "regular" high performance tires. I'm willing to take the risk (and carry a plug kit and mini compressor in the trunk storage area).

I'll give one more reply, when I get everything working in the next week or so.

I googled TPMS and here is the link and my comments.
I have wondered how you are making out. I have checked a few sources and find NO reference to the sensors being 'charged' by driving. They have small batteries which fail sooner than expected. Certain scan tools can tell battery strength the following link says.
The valves are actually the antenna so be sure they are not encumbered with anything fancy.
I would not purchase anything like that on the www, but it is too late for that advice! Yours may be old stock and perhaps the Wheel Section is thicker on the new wheels and prevents programming. Have you tried programming one beside but OFF the vehicle? Invert rim and try as well. If it is a wider wheel, and installed in the drop centre, perhaps the rotor has its own magnetic field and interferes ???
It may save your sanity to order one from GM and see if it works. Keep a good tire gauge handy in the vehicle.
It is apparently no longer the Law that you must keep the TPMS if you do not have the original tires.
The part that gets me is the slowdown to 55!
Are these 2 piece wheels? Perhaps mixed metallurgy? Just guessin'.

later,
Gord.


I Googled an article that has excellent info.
Likely not enough room for it here but it specifically mentions Corvette and Cadillac applications.

Good Luck.
Tire Pressure Monitor System TPMS

 

[Bakertech]

Flats etc.

Thanks Gord, for the extra research - it helps us all!

You are correct, the TPMS DO NOT charge anything. They do, however, go to "sleep" when they are not activated by rotation, to save battery life. They are potted in epoxy, with a one time use battery. Supposedly, they have a life of 6 to 10 years, depending on the use and temperature - so eventually, all of these sensors will go bad.

The tools they use to program the sensors to the cars do have a "test" function, but all I could see was a test for "good" or "no sensor detected". It did not give any indication of the charge left in the battery.

It is possible that the units I purchased are old stock, with low battery charge. They would have to be almost 10 years old for that to happen. Remember, I WAS able to get them to program outside the vehicle (I had 5 sensors). They would not program when in the installed locations. This could be weak batteries, or the extra space between the tool and the sensor, because these are wider rims (with 35 series - low profile - tires), and there are steel belts in the tire tread area (magnetic).

You are also correct that they are programmed by an RF/magnetic signal. The rims are one piece forged aluminum, chrome plated - nothing magnetic there. Being 20" diameter, they are pretty far from the brake rotor.

I do carry a tire gauge in my "regular" car, because when a low tire pressure is sensed, it does not tell me which one. If the pressure is still OK, but below the threshold, it may not be obvious which one it is. And, in this high tech car, with very limited storage, I depend on the TPMS to tell me what the exact pressures are at each location - when they are working.

When I removed the "bad" tire, there were no obvious nails or "wounds" to the tire, so I don't know how the air got out

The 55 MPH limit is driven by your friendly BCM/ECM that tries to protect you if you have a flat, with limited maneuverability, so you don't shred the tire - assuming that you are running on the run flats - which I was not. I am of the mindset that the run flats are OK for some people, but not for me. They have limited availability - size wise - and they don't perform as well as the "regular" high performance tires. I'm willing to take the risk (and carry a plug kit and mini compressor in the trunk storage area).

I'll give one more reply, when I get everything working in the next week or so.

The TPMS on my 2009 Denali started leaking as there is galvanic action between the valve and wheel materials. A white oxide eventually builds up and causes slow leaks. One TPMS had failed due to dead battery (4years). AT $125 each, I had them all removed and regular valve stems installed. It has been a few years but I had a flat on the Denali last week! Puncture in centre of tread. The tire shop has a display of faulty sensors, many because someone put steel valve caps on which corrode and seize. If you use a pliers the valve often twists off! Cheap China pot metal. Instant flat and you need a spare or a tow.
I wish you well. Life shouldn't be so complicated. Perhaps someone will come up with a small pressure vessel that you can put 4 TPMS in (through rim size valve holes) and pressurize it to 36 psi and keep it in the trunk! Perhaps they would go dormant without rotation.
I have always given my tires a glance when approaching my vehicle and check with tire gauge monthly.
Gord.

 

[DAVE JONES]

TPMS

Thought I would check back, after a long and dusty trail to resolve this TPMS programming issue.

First the beginning - I purchased a set of Orange brand TPMS on line. They are the same as Dorman brand - private label. They do list the part number as the factory part number mentioned above. They will program to the car when outside the box, but not when installed in my rims/tires. We tried everything - donut magnets to help the programming machine, letting some air pressure out, trying different angles on the programming machine (though the sidewall, through the tire tread, through the rim, etc.) - no go.

So, had to put the stock rims back on, and they programmed back to the car just fine (with a single beep, and no indication in the DIC that it was in programming mode). Double beep at the end. That meant my RCDL module was just fine.

When I removed the new wheels and tires, I noticed that effing tire dealer did not use the plastic covers on the inner rim clamps, putting 4 sets of "snakebite fang" marks on the inner barrel of my new chrome rims - I was bummed! I alerted the manager and he agreed to remove the tires, install new TPMS, remount and balance the tires for the wholesale cost of the new TPMS - as a consolation prize for the damage that his crew did to the rims. I agreed, but told him he was not going to touch my rims, until he got those plastic protectors to keep from any further damage. He finally suggested that I try another chain store that had the plastic parts and he would reimburse me for the money I would have to pay that store to do the work. Put all 4 new rims and tires back on the car and head 10 miles away to get it done. They tell me that they could install the sensors, but their "programmer" was on vacation for 4 weeks! I told him after all this "hands on" work, I could program the damn things - he said no way. Back home to wait for the plastic parts at my original tire store.

So, I wait, and keep waiting, because he says the plastic protectors are on back order. He has to buy them from his in house parts supplier - even though they are available on Amazon and eBay. And, here's the kicker - since I am now driving around without any TPMS sensors, I have no clue about the tire pressure in the new tires. Low risk, right, everything is brand new - Wrong! The left rear tire loses all of its pressure for some reason and I end up driving on the brand new Michelin Pilot Super Sports, with one flat tire - enough to ruin the flat tire (I only put 60 miles on the car in 3 weeks). So now, I have to replace an expensive 20" tire - which is on back order for 60 days! Now I have to wait for a new tire AND the plastic parts for the tire machine - I'm about ready to blow a gasket after all this!

The end of the story is this - I purchased the plastic parts for the tire machine, and managed to find a single new tire on eBay, which I purchased. I will have the new tire and plastic parts next week, and will (hopefully) be done with this simple task of upgrading my car. The tire dealer promised to reimburse me for the tire (nearly $400) and do the work for free. Pray for me that this is the last chapter!

Here is what the new tires and rims will look like:

View attachment 5301View attachment 5302

Lesson learned - test the sensors BEFRE they are installed. Can't explain why they worked outside the rim/tire, but that's the mystery that will remain.

My friend, as long as you own this $80K XLR you are going to have many problems. I also had TPMS problems & now running with none just checking pressure once in a while. My XLR just turned 67K on a trip of 1800 miles. During the trip the fuel gage failed, next the read out telling range on fuel failed, next on way back the information & odometer reading failed. This does not cover other problems mentioned in the past. I know die hard XLR owners get upset when I comment on the many problems. I'm 76 years old & owned many Caddy's & I can say this one takes the cake. Have a 2005 STS with over 100,00 only had usual maintenance. Avery trouble free car. That is all I have to say now about the XLR.


DAVE J.

 

[lextoy]

soooo dave jones,
i know you hate your xlr, and usually love to bash it, but you did mention something useful this time!!
you can run the xlr WITHOUT the TPMS sensors and it works fine ???
did you get it reprogrammed at the dealer? or does it constantly tell you tire pressure low?
does the ECU limit speed?
how did you accomplish removing the TPM sensors and keeping the car from throwing a tpm alarm??

in my 05 4runner i could splice two wires and trick/bypass the tpm system,
its a system for people who dont know what a pressure gauge is, i dont need it, just like most of us here...
rather than spend money on new sensors , someday i want to just remove and replace with regular valve stems like you did.
any advice would be appreciated!!

 

[lextoy]

hey pak,
nice wheels , it will be worth it in the end!!
i wish i could throw some 20's or 19's on my 07,
but in the philadelphia area, winters suck and destroy the roads,
potholes are everywhere from january to may...
even though i store the car for 5-6 months a yr,
the roads are terrible way to long, and even once they are fixed they are too bumpy
for such low profile tires.
is your front bumper skirt stock?
or did you add a little extra trim along the bottom edge?
i really like the 09 updated front and rear,
i am not in love with the side grills though,
in the end it was the liquid amethyst that was my #1 priority,
if i couldnt have found one them i think any 09 (not black) would have been my choice.
especially the black cherry!

 

[Bakertech]

TPMS FUBAR

OK, I finally got my aftermarket rims and tires (staggered 20's) and ordered new TPMS for the setup (keeping the stock rim/tire set for investment purposes).

After I got the tires installed, and on the car, I could not get the car to go into the "programming mode", with the methods posted on this board - pressing the lock/unlock at the same time, while in ACC mode. All I get is the single horn chirp, not the dual chirp that is expected. I noticed that one other guy had the same problem a few years ago, but no real solution was presented. I tried both remotes, in case there was a low battery in my primary fob (same result each time).

Since the car won't go into "programming mode", I cant get the new TPMS to register to the car. The tire shop is stumped , and I don't want to go to the Cadi dealer for this simple task.

Any experience or hints that can help me here? I have the 2009 manuals, which did not seem to help me on this problem.

Thanks in advance to all you experienced ones!

PAK
If you have not yet resolved your TPMS problem or gone to the GM Dealer, I was wondering if you had considered disconnecting the Battery overnight? Volume 2 of the 2008 Service Manuals has a long list of cautions like recording Theft Lock # on Radio etc. B
Before you do that, be sure to Prop the hood open and leave Drivers door open! Put all the TPMS in the car just in case.
Re and Re Battery Info starts at Page 795 for me.

That action might clear all codes including your Drive 55 and TPMS parts.
You will then have to drive 20 miles or so to get the engine data back etc.

Just a thought. Good Luck.
Gord.