Cadillac XLR Net - The ultimate online hub for Cadillac XLR owners and enthusiasts!
Supporting Membership - Supporting Vendors / Dealers - Advertise With Us

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 32
  1. #16
    Pit Crew pure zen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    663
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cadillac XLR

    2005 Crimson Pearl XLR

    Thumbs up Thanks,,

    blanketdude,,,, Thank you for providing the links. I'm not currently having any difficulty but may need to see it done before actually doing the job.

    p z

  2. #17
    Pit Crew
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Pueblo West, CO
    Posts
    414
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cadillac XLR

    2006 Light Platinum XLR

    Default The Price of "Fly by Wire"

    There are quite a few "fly-by-wire" (FBW) functions on the XLR. One can think of the door-open switch as sending a REQUEST to have the CAR open the door. If all the stars are aligned, and the car's in a good mood, it'll comply. If not, it's time for plan "B" (which might even involve getting the physical key into the action). Other FBW actions that come to mind involve the throttle, the top up/down, the trunk switch, traction control, StabiliTrac, ABS, even the steering (as I'm led to believe), and many more. There really isn't much direct physical control of the XLR by the driver. We just let our intentions be known to the car, and it'll do the right things to comply as best it can within the operating parameters of the vehicle. If we ever have an EMP attack, our cars will be expensive paperweights.

    Now, my '64 'Vette is a different matter. NO COMPUTERS!!! EMP away!!! I'll still be running around when all the new cars are dead on the road... until I run out of gas, then I'll also be "hosed".

    Then, it'll be getting on the bicycle and using that to get places.

    Tim

  3. #18
    Pit Crew
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    HSV
    Posts
    232
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by blanketdude View Post
    I fixed this myself and I am not very mechanically adept. Just watch the video at:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCTu-mQUSMQ

    If you don't want to do that, buy one for $13.00 on ebay. Just watch the video for how to replace it without cleaning the old one and just replace the module with the new part.

    05 13 C6 Corvette 04 09 XLR New GM Updated Door Latch Release Switch 22751230 | eBay

    Both doors honestly took me less than 30 minutes utilizing my Dremel. My doors were barely opening and now they open with ease.
    This is easier to do than describe, but if that door release pad is being difficult, try 'dragging' the pad slightly as you press it. There is enough give in the rubber to allow slight movement horizontally. The problem is usually that the contacts are not clean enough and can be improved by this method.

  4. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    franklin,tn
    Posts
    49
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cadillac XLR

    2007 Black Base

    Default Thank you!

    Just bought 2007 XLR yesterday. After some trouble getting door to open I found this site and post. Cleaned finger pad connectors in 5 min. just like you described. Thank you!


    Quote Originally Posted by 65Tuxedo View Post
    I stumbled onto the thread and I would not recommend it. I could repair both of your doors and drink a beer before you could watch the entire video!

    It is really simple. Just remove the two phillips screws and pull the little unit out from the door.
    Raise the little clip on the electrical connection and separate it. I took the unit into the house so I would not
    lose the little screws on the back. Use a tiny phillips and remove those six screws and the rubber pad will be released.
    You will see the copper connectors. I cleaned mine with emery cloth but a wire brush or anything
    mildly abrasive would work. I made the contact points shiny and put it back together.
    If you have the emery cloth or brush ready, the entire repair will take only a couple of minutes.
    I could do one in the time I have taken to write
    this. It's very easy. Also, A new one is just $12 or so on Ebay.
    Then it would just be two screws and the connection.
    I ordered a pair, but I probably won't use them right away.

    Good luck!

  5. #20
    Pit Crew
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Uncanny Valley, New England
    Posts
    1,029
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cadillac XLR

    2013 Graphite Metallic XTS Platinum

    Default

    Welcome!

    Since you're new, the best place to start a technical post is in . . . the Technical Section! (It helps others quickly find relevant posts.)

    Here's a link with more detail for your issue: Quick Fix for Intermittent and Dead Door Switch Pads

    CC

  6. #21
    Pit Crew Bakertech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carlisle, Ontario
    Posts
    182
    Post Thanks / Like

    GM News

    Quote Originally Posted by 65Tuxedo View Post
    I stumbled onto the thread and I would not recommend it. I could repair both of your doors and drink a beer before you could watch the entire video!

    It is really simple. Just remove the two phillips screws and pull the little unit out from the door.
    Raise the little clip on the electrical connection and separate it. I took the unit into the house so I would not
    lose the little screws on the back. Use a tiny phillips and remove those six screws and the rubber pad will be released.
    You will see the copper connectors. I cleaned mine with emery cloth but a wire brush or anything
    mildly abrasive would work. I made the contact points shiny and put it back together.
    If you have the emery cloth or brush ready, the entire repair will take only a couple of minutes.
    I could do one in the time I have taken to write
    this. It's very easy. Also, A new one is just $12 or so on Ebay.
    Then it would just be two screws and the connection.
    I ordered a pair, but I probably won't use them right away.

    Good luck!
    Thanks for the clear instructions. One of the conductor rails on my '08 pad was a dark colour as if it had been overheated.
    I would suggest that if you are not alone when you do it, that you put some large obstruction in the way so no one can close the door.
    It may or may not open with that switch pad removed!

    Both buttons on the pad work very well now.
    Gord.

  7. #22
    Pit Crew
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Uncanny Valley, New England
    Posts
    1,029
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cadillac XLR

    2013 Graphite Metallic XTS Platinum

    Default

    The discoloration on the copper etches is caused by corrosion, --not overheating, which would be caused by high current, which doesn't exist in this circuit. Placing a conformal coating over the circuit board to reduce the etche's exposure to the elements is about the only way of making them as bullet-proof as possible. In this case, darkened copper is a normal condition.

    CC

  8. #23
    Pit Crew Bakertech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carlisle, Ontario
    Posts
    182
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ccclarke View Post
    The discoloration on the copper etches is caused by corrosion, --not overheating, which would be caused by high current, which doesn't exist in this circuit. Placing a conformal coating over the circuit board to reduce the etche's exposure to the elements is about the only way of making them as bullet-proof as possible. In this case, darkened copper is a normal condition.

    CC
    Thanks for your input CCC. I don't know the voltage at the door switch. As you mentioned, high temp can cause Copper to darken. It also develops a natural dark patina with age. The other trace was bright and there was no sign of any form of corrosion on either one. The contacts from the push buttons were bright and clean. Whatever the cause, removing the oxide layer made the switch work as it should.
    Gord.

  9. #24
    Pit Crew onalaska's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Coldspring, Tx
    Posts
    534
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cadillac XLR

    2006 Infared XLR-V

    Wink

    I like the idea of high voltage on the door switches. Might be an effective way of theft prevention.

    2006 Infared XLR-V built 4/2006, Sold new 8/24/2006 @ 36 miles. Purchased as second owner 7/22/09 @ 40,151 miles, as of 3/2018 81,862 miles
    Ligenfelter Varimax PWM Intercooler Coolant Pump, D3 Stage 1 & 2 Intake, Wait4me tune, Texas Mile 154.6 MPH 10/26/2012
    Other Caddys: 1990 Red Allante 154,000 miles

    Member of Allante' XLR Houston Club:
    www.allanteclubofamerica.com/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=179768&module_id=5 322
    Facebook page: Allante XLR Texas


  10. #25
    Pit Crew
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    spring hill
    Posts
    349
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cadillac XLR

    2005

    Question corvette 6 sit

    Quote Originally Posted by 65Tuxedo View Post
    Just got my 2006 XLR. Passenger door difficult to get open. Watched video on Corvette C6 site.
    2 screws to remove pad. 6 screws to open. Clean with emery and reinstall. Took less than 10 minutes and works like new. Easy fix to a repeated daily irritation.


    Please tell me the URL for Corvette 6 site, and what to click on there.

  11. #26
    Pit Crew Bakertech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carlisle, Ontario
    Posts
    182
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Interior Door Switch problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by ccclarke View Post
    Timely thread; I've been trying to help someone with a related problem.

    The XLR's windows have two built-in functions that are controlled by their respective door modules: Normalization and Indexing. Normalization is the process of calibrating the window position when a door latch button is depressed. The upper-most window position is called the Zero Position. All calibration is derived from the Zero Position. The Zero Position is determined by one of two things - the Anti-Trap location (if something blocks the window from raising and an over-current condition is detected) or the window position switch is held for greater than half a second when it's raised to it's highest position. If the Anti-Trap feature is enabled, that location becomes the new Zero Position.

    Indexing occurs when a door switch is activated. The window glass should drop about 4 mm until the door position switch is depressed, and will raise again after the door position switch indicates the door is not ajar/open. The whole point of Indexing is to effect a watertight and acoustic seal between the window and roof. There's a slight delay for the door latch to open as the sensors communicate via the Class 2 bus with the door module to determine where everything is. Occasionally, I have to prod the door switch pad a few times to get it to open, but the system works pretty well for what it is. This was a pretty cool feature when it first came out.

    CC
    CCClark: Most times my 2008 XLR Passenger door will not open when the interior door panel button is pressed. The button illuminates and activates the interior lights but door does not unlatch. Have you heard of any problems with the Door post latch solenoid? Is it very difficult to access?
    Seems like a huge job to change the switch on the interior door panel and I would like to be sure it is faulty.
    Regards,
    Gord.

  12. #27
    Pit Crew
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    spring hill
    Posts
    349
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cadillac XLR

    2005

    Talking interior door switches

    Quote Originally Posted by Bakertech View Post
    CCClark: Most times my 2008 XLR Passenger door will not open when the interior door panel button is pressed. The button illuminates and activates the interior lights but door does not unlatch. Have you heard of any problems with the Door post latch solenoid? Is it very difficult to access?
    Seems like a huge job to change the switch on the interior door panel and I would like to be sure it is faulty.
    Regards,
    Gord.
    I have had no problem with the interior door open switches. The only problem I had, with door openers, was the passenger one, to open the door from the outside, wouldn't work. I removed it (2) black phillips head screws,and took it to the kitchen table. Then I removed 6 very tiny phillips screws on the back, to open it. I cleaned the copper circuit board with "Prep Sol."Then I lightly sanded that circuit board, cleaned it again with "Prep Sol," and re-installed it. It works like as new one now!!

  13. #28
    Pit Crew Bakertech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carlisle, Ontario
    Posts
    182
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Interior Door Switch.

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Lee View Post
    I have had no problem with the interior door open switches. The only problem I had, with door openers, was the passenger one, to open the door from the outside, wouldn't work. I removed it (2) black phillips head screws,and took it to the kitchen table. Then I removed 6 very tiny phillips screws on the back, to open it. I cleaned the copper circuit board with "Prep Sol."Then I lightly sanded that circuit board, cleaned it again with "Prep Sol," and re-installed it. It works like as new one now!!
    C3
    I have done that a couple years ago to both outside door openers but it is the Interior one that malfunctions.

  14. #29
    Pit Crew
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Uncanny Valley, New England
    Posts
    1,029
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cadillac XLR

    2013 Graphite Metallic XTS Platinum

    Default

    Correct. We're discussing a door latch issue when the interior switch is pressed.

    If the door unlatches when the exterior switch pad is pressed, the latch is most likely fine, which tends to direct the troubleshooting in the direction of the interior switch. But there's more to it; after all, this was Cadillac's first attempt at a seriously interconnected vehicle, so we have to look at the Big Picture and try to avoid tunnel vision when troubleshooting.

    Three modules (and the interior door switch) have to operate correctly in order for the passenger side door latch to do it's thing. The RCDLR, (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) the PDM, (Passenger Door Module) and the BCM (Body Control Module) make the magic happen. The RCDLR and BCM signal the PDM to unlatch the door.

    Digging a little deeper, the RCDLR receives the UNLATCH signal from the exterior and interior door switches. First, it checks the status of the door to determine if it's locked or not. If the door is unlocked, the RCDLR applies a ground to the door latch solenoid. But wait, there's more! You need a supply voltage applied to the solenoid to complete the circuit.

    The PDM receives the door switch UNLATCH signal at the same time as the RCDLR. It checks the status of the window to figure out the height of the window. (This is where the window index count memory resides for each door that the folding top control module checks before it will move the top.) If the window is below it's index position, the PDM allows the latch to be opened. If the window is above it's index point, it drops the window slightly prior to the door unlatching, to avoid damaging the seal and or window glass. When the window is in the correct index position, the PDM sends a signal to the BCM to apply voltage to the window latch. (This is another clue. . . can you tell where this is going?) Remember, all of the above assumes the windows are indexed properly. If the top isn't working, that's always the first thing to check, by the way.

    To summarize, the BCM supplies the solenoid voltage and the RCDLR supplies the ground path to complete the circuit, throwing the latch.

    Here's what I recommend now that you have a good idea of how the circuit should operate:

    1. With the passenger side window fully raised, press the passenger side interior door switch. Does it: Index (drop 4 mm?) If so, does the door latch solenoid make any noise?

    2. With the passenger side window fully lowered, press the passenger side interior door switch. Does the door latch operate or make any noise? (It's okay, press your ear against the exterior door panel while you press the switch, nobody's watching. . . right?)

    3. Repeat steps 1 & 2 with the exterior switch, which should work fine, but inquiring minds wanna know, just to be sure.

    In theory, if the exterior switch operates under these conditions, then the interior switch should too, since they use almost identical signal paths, with the exception of a few wires, connectors, and of course, the two unlatch switches. But seeing as how I'm here and you're there, remote troubleshooting always boils down to educated guessing based on good symptom elaboration, so the more info you can give me, the easier it is to offer potential solutions.

    Drink a beer or two to celebrate your new passenger side door latch troubleshooting skills, then report back with the answers to questions #1 and #2, and I'll walk you through the next exciting steps. One warning: You'll need to buy more beer!

    CC
    Last edited by ccclarke; 11-12-2017 at 07:53 PM. Reason: Added step 3.

  15. #30
    Pit Crew XLRATING's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,760
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cadillac XLR

    2006 Infrared XLR (Beauty); 2008 GT500 (Beast); 2007 Black XLR-V (Victor)

    Default

    CC -

    Reading that makes me wish you were on the CTS Coupe forum, because while my XLR inside buttons work fine, the driverís side on my Coupe does not (which is why I read your write-up here in case it gave me/Mike ideas...)

    yep, I drive a hybrid - a V8 bred for high speed!

    2006 Infrared XLR
    Corsa exhaust
    XLR-V sway bar
    Powder coated calipers
    Drilled & slotted rotors
    Custom engine cover
    Custom hood & trunk liner
    Zaino polish

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Cadillac, XLR and XLR-V are registered trademark of the General Motors Corporation & Cadillac Motor Division.  Neither Cadillac Motor Division nor any subsidiaries of GM© shall bear any responsibility for XLR-Net.com content, comments, or advertising. XLR-Net.com is independent from GM© and is not affiliated with, sponsored or supported by GM©.  Copyright/trademark/sales mark infringements are not intended, or implied.  All Rights Reserved